The Bu

Apparently its Motor Trend's car o' the year. And she's not bad; neutral color, faux wood panelling, sunroof, and much to my astonishment after 4 days at the helm (with 6 left to go) the discovery of satellite radio. No that wasn't an Indian FM station on the scans, its actually XM Bollywood. But when you're cruisin' down the 101, who is really looking at the controls anyway? Especially with all those mountains and clouds on both sides of, "the valley." Clouds a plenty are raining down on us here, and quite frankly, with the wet and temps in the 50's I might as well still be in Boston. While much of the IT economy is climbing back on its feet, and to quote an exec, "we're just heading back to base camp," my priviledge is to be working with the best of our best-- our Hi Po's. And what a crew my team is- hailing from Spain, Holland, the UK, Switzerland by way of US, US by way of Taiwan, and good old CA we are weathering the storm and putting together one heck of a business plan to revolutionize health care across the developing world. Not bad for 16 weeks of work-- Thursday will be our final test when our bid for funding hits the powers that be.... No Indian busses with worn brake pads, no Beijing taxi's, now only the memories, and the Bu-- plus all the other 60 or so rental cars, sheparding minds and bodies to campus where brilliance is being put to work on behalf of a better life for citizens of the new "power economies" and corporate results.

Bubblicious!

Today was bubblicious. Pure, crisp, zingy bubbly. Decent 5AM wake up. Work out. International buffet breakfast. Clean up. Meet Victor our driver at noon but first watch bubble acrobats in the lobby. Please note the mop in foreground.... Probably one of the most secure jobs in all of Beijing.... Black marble floor, Beijing sand and dirt. Front entrance 5 star hotel. Need I say more? Today we set out in Victor's snazzy Hundai and hit Beijing, or at least intended too. We had him for a full 5 hours and I was CERTAIN we'd get through a long list of must visit shops. Stop #1? The pearl market. Great! First thing I noticed was that I was locked into my iPhone reading the guidebook for much of the ride, that is until I sampled one of the supercharger, espresso ritz cracker snacks he supplied for us, and that all too familiar (hint think Singapore taxi) scent of "my car smells better than your car" wafted through my olfactory zone and crossed the barrier into stomach unrest. Right. iPhone down, eyes up, windows open! let the power be with you Victor. Its your itinerary from here on in....

And hit the pearl market we did, downstairs electronics, next floor bags-- brief stop at a booth with some wonderful "Lonchamp" bags-- the type I 've been teasing myself with at duty free- but boy oh boy did she start the INTIMIDATION sale with me and fast. Spelling error intended back there btw. Meanwhile, my shopping pals and Victor are in negotiations to have a look at some special stock. More about that later. Much later. So we proceed onwards, and head upstairs to two floors of pearls and jewelery. A sellers paradise given the prey... wayward, jet lagged, unsuspecting business travelers and tourists. Oh yes, today I got my bargain on and it wasn't until that espresso ritz cracker doo dad worked its magic that out came an angel and a devil.... Totally bubblicious! Boy were those pearls mind numbing and wow did I get ripped off. You see my fundamental error was to undercut their first offer by 50%. You must begin bargaining at least 80% under asking price and definitely Don't be afraid to walk. So on average I wound up about 20% over my internal no cross line. But those defenses were down.... and the circumstances and environment sort of took its toll. As after the pearl and jewelry stint-- wait tho--did you know that Madeline Albright, Laura Bush, Hillary Clinton and Margaret Thatcher all bought pearls at the store we visited? Oh they are so very pretty...... Anyway, more about the story that can't be told when i can tell it. The moral of the story is, never ask once, never ask twice, always ask at least three times and don't have any idea what you are asking for because you didn't know it exists. Did we hit the motherload? Suffice to say that we finally departed the Pearl Market neighborhood 45 minutes before we were due back, after spending that time in quite certainly odd circumstances. Where to next? Crazily overpriced tailor to reproduce my favorite silk blouse. Yikes, is this turning out to be a shopping blog or what? No, one poignant moment slid across my bow- as we drove through Tianamen square. I didn't see it, but I felt it and new immediately that this was where I had been. Even the square is completely unrecognizable, but not the feeling I'd had when standing in it 20 years ago. Then it was onto the hotel to meet the team and head out for dinner....

Taxi driver home serenaded us with orchestral whistling.... I'm marching off to sleeep I hope (melatonin and sleeping pills to follow) with Mozart symphonies coursing through my mind... tomorrow day 1.

Lifeinarentalcar meets the hotel

Today, or was it yesterday, marked my first flight over the polar ice cap. Not sure we did exactly that, but it was definitely a "cool" experience.

We went from day light to dusk to dawn to daylight but never complete darkness for the entire 13:01 minute flight. So no cool Northern Lights shows. Hopefully we'll have some on the way back... What I did experience was a whole lot of Mongolia-

While I've been fascinated with the notion of completing a horserace across Mongolia, after my preview today, I might just take a pass. Of course the grass hasn't greened up, nor has spring arrived, but I did see a whole lot of herders and their yurts. Oh dear, I sense interest arising again.....We did however have a sunny arrival into Beijing thanks to a morning rain shower, which made for some great site seeing from the air.

I was primarily amazed at the number of powerplants I saw, hydro, nuclear, coal, and wind turbines. Beijing's airport is simply huge and stunning (on the inside). However, I will add that when stepping onto the jet bridge, I couldn't help but notice the familiar eau du burn. It did not have the deep undertones a la Bangalore, Hanoi, or Nairobi-- but had perhaps a rather less dramatic scent.

Being met by private escorts at the airport is nice,
Better yet is being whisked down a non descript hallway to a "special" parking pick up zone for dignitaries, VIPs, and well, business people. Stepping into the BMW7 750 was a perfect compliment to the flight and we set off for the hotel only to meet some of Beijings famous traffic. There are a lot of nice cars on the road here. The Beijing I remember from 20 years ago is nowhere to be found, at least not yet. Maybe tomorrow or next Saturday.... except well, we did arrive from Xian in 1991 via what we were told was the Premier's 737 complete with couches, so I guess arriving in Beijing in style is just the way it goes....

This week we will be primarily holed up at the Westin a brand new and extremely swish modern hotel. My 27th floor view seems to pick up the street noise well, but it does have this funky clocktower to help me remember what time it is.....

A few of us went for a plod around the hotel neighborhood and all of my Hanoi street crossing sense returned. First rule is to follow or stand shoulder to shoulder with a local. Second rule, if they run, run! We dodged into a department store which was pretty much nicer than most of our major department stores and has far more choice and brands. We couldn't help but remark on the sense of forward momentum we've experienced (walked passed the Maybach dealer en route) in our short time. Yet, the sense of newness is bizarre. But well, history is being written. Opting to stay-in this evening, I've just finished my soup, having tested the spa for a massage (I will be going back), there is a yoga studio on site, and the indoor pool is stunning. Gym is a bit small, but looks as though without our two hours of bus commuting time in Bangalore, I may be able to squeeze in just a little bit of fun. So I've just previewed this post and it looks as though perhaps the video is being censored. My apologies and if anyone knows how to work around this challenge (I'm already using VPN) please let me know! Maybe they will work for you....

Jet lag nonsense reigns- have already made the toothbrush and tap water mistake, even after pouring a nice cup of bottled water.... Ah, c'est la vie.

Ha Ha Ha, April Fools? No.... Lifeinarentalcar Meets the Hotel will begin shortly.

The question is, do I stay up and begin my jet lag a day in advance? Ah, Beijing in just about 29 hours.... that is, if we (my colleague and I) can get from Boston to Newark by 11AM to make our connection to China. As the fool's would have it, a nor'easter is working its magic up and down the North East and there is a solid white coating of snow on the ground with more on the way. An option is to make use of my jet lag inducing status and get in the car and drive to Newark to avoid any flow control delays.... just the thought of which is triggering PTSD from my Philly commuting days. Yes, the idea definitely has its limitations..... Now I recognize that there are still at least 5 days of India unaccounted for and you have my utmost apologies for that.... someday the tale of the potential hijacking, shopping extravaganza, and India wrap up will be shared, but for now, we are on to Beijing after yes, yet again, 20 years! Its been 20 years since I stood in Tianamen Square with my Semester at Sea pals and listened as our guide denied the uprising. I also remember buying Cheerio's in a grocery store within the basement of the Hilton hotel, vaguely recall a foray into an oddly lit nightclub. Gungoll, do you remember that? And finally remembering the banners in English sharing the message with us that Socialism is Good. In any case, my Great Wall of China t-shirt still hasn't worn out or stained- high quality poly cotton, so I'm not entirely certain I'll negotiate for another- whew, actually I remember the t-shirt negotiations too- they drive a hard bargain! Now, Lifeinarental car returns, from potential to professional and this time, to meet the hotel. The only bus we'll ride is to the Wall on Wednesday....

Potentially India's greatest challenge? Which one!

ipaidabribe.com

So yesterday I learned that "the IT story in India is dead." It was just the shining star that set transformation in motion. Instead, dawn rises on a new age of Rockefellers, Vanderbilts and Mellons. Infrastructure is the future of the Indian economy. Everywhere we go (in the bus) we see evidence of change- construction, and new buildings. Fascinating stuff. Yet, 80% of India's population live in slums and then, others roll into the middle class. And when they roll into the middle class, consumption multiplies, retail evolves, homes are built and bought, higher education is engaged, medical demands increase, transportation evolves, oil and energy demand increases, sectors are born, and finally these people want to have fun, so there is a cultural revolution in store- the likes of which has ONLY JUST BEGUN.

And another fascinating stat-- 20% of the worlds teenagers live in India. Ponder that one for a minute.

Yet-- for every step forward there is a cultural relic or artifact, a little something, sometimes big, that holds things back, or makes it slide sideways. According to a university professor, many Indians believe that all this progress is only temporary. This stuff runs deep.

By the way, I rode on a different bus today, twice. Needed to switch things up.

Bangalorian talks about traffic

The Bus!

A local take on traffic

The goggle mishap

Calf

Meeting the bus...

Its easy to feel a bit fraudulent when you're living behind gates, metal detectors (both the kind that sweeps all vehicles for bombs and an airport style walk through xray machine), you travel in a bus complete with a security dude, a parking assistant, as well as the driver, and you have a personal butler back at your room who brings you bags full of delectable miniature bananas (vital part of safe stomach campaign) and cocunut macaroons, when just down the street is the local milk station. Yes, the milk station, kind of like a walk up, drive up, moto up, petrol station for your milk containers. Milk of the fresh, unpasteurized variety- the kind that Massachusetts and a number of other states have banned for fear of duh, dun da na..... bacteria! Sheesh, the threat of a little bacteria has definitely never stopped an Indian from enjoying one of life's true gifts. Fresh milk, from a milk station- that's right, 5 cows tethered to a hitching post hanging out waiting to deliver their goods.

We're looking at small businesses here, and it strikes me that this one, clearly has a lock on the market until the infrastructure improves enough for everyone to have their own cow. And yes, India in particular Bangalore is a land of contrasts. I have seen only 2 wandering cows, 1 calf and 1 ox cart-- in fact, the site of an oxcart in Bangalore these days is a rarity I've been told. But get this- the town planners have proposed eliminating rickshaws in exchange for a taxi version of the mini Tata vehicle. Guess Tata has some powerful lobbyists... but who doesn't and I hear they aren't selling well and are definitely "not good." So why not replace the time tested and honorable 2 stroke rickshaws?

128,000 people are joining the Indian middle class everyday. Can you imagine? Well, that is a good question as I've yet to see (from the windows of our bus) a single slum, beggar, street child (OK maybe 1) or leper. Quite a contrast to 20 years ago when it was 100% onslaught of organized chaos at all times. The sad part is, I know they exist, just around the corner, from somewhere. Only from the bus our perspective IS limited.

Now I'm not complaining as my primary responsibility is to return all executives to their homes without a scratch- so if this is a strategy then let it be. However, let us all be mindful that while what we experience feels a bit like Disney India, there is a mad level of suffering still out there, just beyond the shiny apartments and fancy office parks- I think.

For those of you wondering, Monday was shopping day, so we had some time to stretch our legs before meetings began in the afternoon-- silk, heritage crafts and a marathon bartering session- Sir, I would really not like to insult you but I will only pay $10 for this while you have suggested I pay $300. We settled at 40. I've eaten off campus once with one of my coachees who lives here in town, and we went to BBQ nation. The hostess was Chinese. Oh the land of contrasts.

I'd mentioned that it takes a lot of people to do a lot of things here, and well they have the benefit of lots of people at the ready- For example, we had an army searching for Cassandra's bag. For our Sunday sight-seeing mission, they'd arranged two cars and we all fit into one. After we'd driven off and were about 10 minutes out of the hotel, a twin to our vehicle pulls along side. Hmm, that's the other car I thought... we arrived at our destination the Palace here in Bangalore, where that portrait posted on my FB page was only the tip of the iceberg of potentially the worlds quirkiest art collection, and realized that we had no rupees. But ma'ams that is Ok, I will send the second car to an ATM- at which point, his brother drives up along side of us and screeches to a halt only to receive directions via mobile phone, returning swiftly in 5 minutes time to grant us access to said quirky art collection. thank goodness for car # two and well yes, ma'am in case we have a flat tire, then we will not loose any time.

Then there is the matter of protocol and process. For example, today, at our luncheon buffet, I picked up my dinner plate from the desert line. When I arrived at the lunch line, the nice server recovered the clean plate in my hand and replaced it with exact same item from the lunch plate line. So excellent. How could I have been so silly?

Its late-- must get some rest. Photos and video is a real nuisance to upload in these wee time stretches but there are some good ones on the way.

Backing up....

Alps on Austrian border
Mountains in Turkey?






Flying to India just wasn't so bad. Perhaps its the delirium that accompanies sleep deprivation, but all in all, the trip seemed really quick. Strangely quick, even if it did take 24 hours (6 hour layover- 3hrs of which was spent soundly asleep in Richmond care of 12 Jocelyn and Mr. Will Hutchins. What follows are a few key moments of the trip....


Modern- efficient (mostly) arrival. Could have been anywhere until you took your first inhalation on the jet bridge-- the universal, unmistakable scent of burning trash, accompanied with slight mildew overtones. ING is a big sponsor at the airport.


Baggage claim wouldn't ordinarily be so interesting to me, but this one drew me in. Primarily because of the quiet hum of the carousels-- I've spent a good bit of time at the AA baggage claim at Logan lately and the clack, clack, uhm boppa, clack, clack, uhm boppa or hte carousel there seems amazingly outdated in comparison....




Yet, unfortunately a good looking baggage carousel cannot make up for incompetent airline baggage handling depsite a 6 hour layover......




Twas not to be..... no bag for Cassandra (who runs the entire program). As a result we had an unexpected non tourist shopping experience-- Loose one- win one. Bag did show up today thanks to an army of helpers.... It takes a lot of people to do a lot of things here in India. More about that to come....

Day 1 48 hours

Jet-lag can be lethal.... After all the steps one goes through to protect oneself from any hint of consumption of water, what happens at 10PM after you've brushed your teeth with bottled water? Well, one moves on to washing one's face and then splashing a nice good rinse.... and swishing it all around with total satisfaction that yes, in fact you've nearly made it to bed after nearly 48 hours without more than a 2 hour nap.... whoops! Wait, was one's mouth open..... ;-) While not devastating.... it just serves as a reminder that one tiny misstep and whammo! A happy few days can be all over.... But if that's not so bad, there was the hunger that hit mid day yesterday. All set for pizza, my dazed colleague and I dove into one of the 3 hotel restaurants. Buffet only ma'am, please sit here. Lured by the thought of delightful scrambled eggs and toast, we sat and then our first course arrived. Yes, ma'am, here are the salads-- this one are beans, and this one are sliced veggie- tables, and this one are curried eggplant. Next we will bring your dimsum, and you may get up to serve your sushi from the sushi bar.... no joke- we walked smack dab into a Chinese/Japanese buffet at India's only Asian fusion restaurant..... Zen. Having pledged not to eat anything raw, with legs, or from the sea, immediately we had before us a conundrum. Too tired to do anything about it, we submitted, save the Sushi thanks to a recent Parisian mishap care of Monsiuer Swiz. Alas, this is a five star hotel and they do cater to Westerners..... Well. So far so good. And more about the Leela Palace later.... More about everything later, though blogging time is tight! After all this is a business travel blog.... so I'm off to do a bit of business with my team..... one initial interview and our first team dinner. The go button has been pushed!

Heading out...

Just under 7.5 hours until lift off.... 20 years ago the SS Universe deposited me on the shores of Madras India (now Chennai). Vivid memories of an experience that changed me from the core persist from an adventure that unfolded over 7 days. Traveling as a student, India awoke me to my senses and the wonder of what I might do and who I would become when I grew up. Sunday morning, I'll land in Bangalore courtesy of British Airways- 4:40AM for a little added flavor, on a week long business adventure. Join me as I hope to capture the unknown!